Delectable kebabs, fragrant biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has forever been a haven for gastronomes, with locals and tourists equally swearing by its superb cuisine.
A Global Honor
Recently, UNESCO designated it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – including it in a prestigious list of world cities and sparking hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this title, it enters a global network of cities metropolises across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a key factor of city development that is sustainable".
The accolade "stands as proof of its deep-rooted culinary traditions and lively gastronomic culture," according to a spokesperson from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to find a place in this coveted list of 70 cities internationally.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The honor for this venerable city comes as hardly a shock to its locals or avid food lovers. Many share the opinion that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO recognition, this adored, bustling, and eclectic city – the capital of India's largest state – is now in the global gaze for what has always characterized its essence: an unparalleled devotion for food.
"'The day's menu, how should it be prepared' is a ongoing conversation from waking up until night in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are often judged by the excellence of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of the Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th-century affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its tender kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were conceived, refined, and elevated to sublime levels in their imperial kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were centers of culinary innovations, fusing Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were created. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was devised to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs ground the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Apart from the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just showcases seasonal produce but also offers the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Almost on countless corners, there are little shops and carts – hidden gems that are extremely popular with the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, large gatherings start milling around from early morning at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, served in kulhads, along with pillowy soft buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can visit a no-frills joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also presents remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert available in the winter. The technique of making it is precise and complicated. The cook whisks the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible airy feel.
On cold mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many though express concern that their younger generation are unwilling to learn the craft.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's rich food legacy positions it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – influenced by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is believed, will inspire more people worldwide to discover these stories and experience the city to taste the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
